Life Lessons, Via Francigena, Wanderlust

Beyond Reason

Let me make something very clear: I am not a person who believes that everything happens for a reason. Yes, there might be a scientific rationale, something tangible that helps explain a series of phenomena, but in my mind things in life — bad or good — do not happen for some sort of intangible, higher reason.

I say this because something unexpected just happened to me. After walking 700 kilometers, from Aosta to Siena, Italy, I was taking a rest day in Siena. On my way to do laundry, I slipped on a step and fractured a bone in my foot. A simple action that led to a grave situation.

My walk to Rome is, at least for now, finished.

I’ve learned that anger is a natural response to unfortunate circumstances

I don’t want to or need to find a reason for this. I do not believe that the universe was sending me some sort of message.

Was I tired? Sure I was. I’ve walked 700 km in the past five weeks. That’s why I planned regular rest days. That’s why I paced myself, took breaks, got plenty of sleep, drank a lot of fluids, made sure I adequately fueled myself every day. My body wasn’t sending me a signal that I needed to stop. I walked from Aosta to Siena without a single blister. Other than a few scratches and bruises, I didn’t have any problems. Literally the day before I slipped I was dancing in my boots to the melody of “I’m too sexy for this trail” with my Camino friends. I have never felt more emotionally or physically strong in my life.

I simply slipped on a step and twisted my foot and crack.

Perhaps I should hitch a ride?

The fact is, no matter how much we prepare ourselves, no matter how much we try and do the right thing, shit happens, often at the least opportune moments of our lives. Shit happens to so-called good people and shit happens to so-called bad people, and when it does happen, it sucks. Full stop. To say that things happen for a reason tends to oversimplify life, as if there is some easy answer that has already been written for us that will magically make the bad feelings go away.

No, I don’t believe there is some predetermined, abstract reason for this happening. Life is not that simple.

But while I don’t believe that there is some inherent reason for every event that takes place in our lives, I do think we can — and should — find meaning in the darkest moments. In fact, I think that it is our responsibility as human beings to actively seek out meaning. It isn’t easy; it takes work. But finding meaning is a form of empowerment. It helps us understand events in the context of our lives. It connects us to those around us. It helps us grow. It helps us move forward. It helps us survive. 

Meaning ultimately is what makes us human.

One of my last shots from my last day of walking

I imagine that all of this sounds like I’m contradicting my story of The Magic Door. Perhaps on some level I am. But I want to clarify what I meant by The Magic Door. I think we are often, sometimes unconsciously, looking for something to help us cope with and understand our lives. If we didn’t need something in a specific moment, we probably wouldn’t notice the thing we need — or we wouldn’t assign it the same value as The Magic Door. I guess, in the end, I don’t believe in a magical force that exists outside of us, something or someone waving her or his wand to send us an invisible directive; rather, The Magic Door is something that exists on our insides that helps connect us to the external world.

For example, Monday morning. I had to get an orthopedic boot to replace the cast that I had on my foot. This was not an easy task to accomplish in a country where I don’t speak the language. This was not an easy task to accomplish alone. This was not an easy task to accomplish in pain on crutches on uneven, hilly streets. The woman at the reception of my hotel helped me find a nearby store that was supposed to open at 9 a.m. Of course, when I arrived at 9:45, it was closed. No sign, no indication of when they would be open. Nothing.

Welcome to Italy.

As I was standing in front of the store that was supposed to be open (but of course wasn’t), my taxi long gone, I saw the Via Francigena trail marker sticker. I’ve literally seen hundreds, maybe even thousands of these stickers over the past few weeks. But this one reassured me that I’m still on The Way, even though I’m not on The Way. It put me at ease.

The familiar red and white sticker of the Via Francigena (the pilgrim lying on her side is not a self portrait!)

Was it magic? You can call it that if you want to. Magic has a beautiful connotation.

But the reality is, I’ve been booking hotels in the center of Siena because things are closer together and easier to get to — the historical city center being where the Via Francigena runs. So of course I’d see a sticker in that area. It wasn’t put there as a secret code to me. It was put there to guide pilgrims through the city. It doesn’t inherently mean anything. It wasn’t magic. It was a sticker. 

However Monday morning I needed it to mean something more. And so it did. It does. To me.

If I hadn’t hurt my foot, I would have passed that same sticker while walking out of Siena and probably not have even noticed it other than a quick glance to make sure I was on the route.

Magic. Meaning. TomAto. TomAHto.

I may no longer be walking, but The Way is still there for me

In the last few days, I’ve received a lot of support from family and friends near and far. And when people say to me that things happen for a reason, I accept the sentiment with a warm heart. But I’ve also received a lot of (well intentioned, I know) advice that just doesn’t work for me. Such as, the advice that I shouldn’t feel angry because my anger won’t change the situation. 

Well, guess what? I am angry this happened. I’m downright pissed off. I’m angry and I’m sad and I’m devastated. I know that I can come back and finish this walk some day. And I know that the circumstances of my life could be much worse. I know that I could be a girl in a war-torn country or a man dying of cancer or a mother whose son has just been gunned down. I know these things. But that doesn’t make what has happened to me any less difficult. (I’ll write more soon on the challenges of having a medical crisis while traveling alone in a foreign country.)

It’s rarely difficult for me to extract the good from the bad. The silver lining is almost always a fingernail’s scratch below the surface. There is so much good that I’ve seen in these past few days. The Italian couple who stopped to offer assistance as I slowly crutched my way up a hill. A woman who silently handed me a tissue as I stood crying in the orthopedic store. The store owner who kindly carried my purchase up the stairs of my hotel. The stranger who offered me his shoulder as I hopped up the last two stairs.

But it’s important to acknowledge my frustration at the same time. It’s important to feel what I’m feeling. Shit has happened big time. I recognize that this can’t be changed or reversed. But I know that I can, eventually, find a way into this shit pile that leads to meaning.

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10 thoughts on “Beyond Reason

  1. I love you TJ!!!! So much. You SHOULD be angry! I’m angry for you! But the best thing about anger (for most people) is that it’s a release, and it leads to clarity eventually. I hope you’re in a place where you can relax and heal yourself, and still be surrounded by beauty.

    1. I think a lot of people associate anger with uncontrollable violent rage. It CAN be that, but not always. Anger is a natural thing to feel, and I agree that with it a person can arrive at some sort of clarity.

      Not surrounded by much beauty as I’m finding it difficult to get around on crutches. But I’m enjoying lounging around and just reading, writing, watching movies, and taking short trips outside for lunch/ice cream/treats.

      Love you, too!!!

  2. Oh no! So sorry to hear about your fracture, and your walk ending. But your journey hasn’t, as your post makes clear! Sending you a big hug )

    1. You know, I was thinking about what you said to me before my surgery about flânerie being more a journey of the mind, and ultimately this I believe is where la flâneuse and la pellegrina intersect. The two aren’t entirely different as they are always journeys of self discovery. xo

  3. Do not deny what you are feeling. Too many times we’re told we shouldn’t feel the way we do, but we are feeling that way and we do have a right to our experience. I’m sorry this happened to you and that you’re in pain. Love to you.

    1. Thanks, friend! I don’t understand the impulse people have to tell people how to feel — or to just the existence of a feeling. Feelings aren’t good or bad; they simply exist. I’m doing much better, or maybe I’m just getting used to these new circumstances — and the new set of eyes I now have as a result.

      Always looking for the story, I suppose. Watch this space 🙂

  4. It makes total sense to be angry, to be sad, to be frustrated (oh, I just had a moment of hating Italy and I don’t have NEARLY the reasons you do!), and just to want to close your eyes tight and wish yourself back in time for a do-over.

    I think it will be interesting, down the line, to reflect on the twists and turns your life will have taken because this happened — the things that you wouldn’t have seen and the people that you wouldn’t have met had you kept walking as planned. But that won’t mean that you broke your foot SO THAT you could see these things and meet these people. It’ll just mean that shit happens…and that sometimes good shit happens that makes the bad shit not stink so much.

    This post is beautifully written, by the way — raw and honest and crystal clear. But I really wish you hadn’t had to write it.

    1. Oh, the number of times I’ve wished for a do-over: If I had just continued walking with my new camino friend; if I had waited to do laundry in the city center; if I had been wearing my boots instead of my more casual shoes I normally wear to give my feet a break from the boots; if I had left five minutes earlier or later. But this can’t be changed.

      You know me, though, as agonizing as this has been — and still is — I’m enjoying seeing where it’s taking me. I’ve been commenting all day to people who have stopped me to offer assistance how this is making me hyperaware of the goodness in others (and likewise aware of how few people do stop to offer help).

      But yes. I wish I hadn’t had to write it. It did feel good, though! xo

  5. Thank you for this article. I needed it. I too am broken and I read it as I lay here in the ,hospital. yes I tripped like you, falling and breaking three ribs. Yes, I am angry and frustrated with my clumsiness but let’s face it I envy your locale, you are lucky you are not stuck in a hospital bed

    1. Oh, I’m so sorry to hear you’ve been injured, Elain! I wouldn’t be too envious of my locale, though, as I’ve mostly been stuck in a hotel room! Even minor activity is exhausting me 🙁

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